In search of a truly ‘British’ curry

For years, many people considered chicken tikka masala to be Britain’s national dish. The famous curry’s reputation was so well established that the European Union even considered granting it protected status, which would place it in the same tier as Champagne, Gruyère cheese and Cornish pasties.

Tikka masala’s origin story provided an amusing, feel-good narrative about multicultural identity in modern Britain: a Bangladeshi cook in Glasgow, trying to make a dish more palatable for a local customer, tipped a can of tomato soup onto marinated chicken. Unfortunately, the story also happens to be as fake as imitation crab meat.

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In search of a truly ‘British’ curry