Coffee, culture and connections: Exploring coffee culture in the Middle East

By Sana Panjwani

Whether you’re studying, on a date, meeting friends or in a job interview, the one beverage that fits perfectly in each scenario is coffee. Often described as the “Elixir of the Gods,” this ubiquitous drink, while simple in its pure form, is consumed in a wide range of forms and renditions around the world.

For many, the world’s favorite hot beverage is an integral part of their daily routine. In the Middle East, however, it is an integral part of life, local culture and customs.

Coffee was first discovered in Ethiopia in the 9^th century when a shepherd noticed the heightened energy in his sheep after they are wild “coffee berries.” These “berries” later made their way to the southern tip of the Red Sea in port Al-Mokha in Yemen where they were roasted, brewed and came to resemble the cup of fresh, dark cup of goodness we hold so dearly today.

Coffee, or Qahwa in Arabic, seeps through every aspect of the region’s culture and has become a signature symbol of sophistication, hospitality and generosity.

“Coffee is a way of life. Friends gather for hours over coffee to discuss the matters of the day, society, and the world,” says Tommy Weir, a leadership expert who strongly believes in the power of coffee. “In the Middle East, having coffee is about much more than the coffee. in the Middle East having coffee shows respect and value, and—most important—it is where trust is built.”

Arabic coffee has evolved in the region from being used as an “energy drink” for long night prayers to becoming a lucrative trade item and a signature drink over which marriages, contracts and even blood feuds have been settled. It is often said that the reason why coffee is so popular among the citizens in the Middle East is because of the lack of alcohol, making coffee the “wine of Arabia” in social situations.

Kaveh Kane Culture

In Arab societies, the gesture of “getting a cup of coffee” is often associated with acts of debate and discussion, ranging from politics to mutual interests.

Spreading throughout the Islamic world, the beverage has sprouted hundreds of kaveh kanes or coffee houses throughout the region that have become centers of knowledge, debate and intellectual conversation where men could shares their thoughts on the arts, poetry and local issues over a game of backgammon or chess.

“The routine,” adds Weir, “is a cultural relic”.

What makes Arabic coffee unique?

Arabic coffee is much more than a social lubricant, but an art form in itself given its traditional yet beautiful preparation.

Almost never drunk with milk, coffee blends in the Middle East range from lightly to darkly roasted and are often infused with spices such as cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, saffron, ginger, nutmeg and oud to lend the simple cup of joe an exquisite regional taste, aroma and experience.

“Together, these variables make for a very different coffee experience to that enjoyed in the rest of the world,” said Sireen Takrouri, founder of Arabian Coffees.

Even between Arab countries, there are different ways to prepare and drink coffee. In Egypt, coffee is usually prepared the “Turkish way,” offered in a small cup with a thin layer of foam called the “face.” In Lebanon, coffee is boiled once and served in larger quantities with “no face.” In Yemen, every aspect of the coffee plant is used. The beans are used to make traditional coffee called Bun, the husk is used to make a cardamom and ginger-spiced coffee drink called qishr, and the leaves are also used to make a red-tea-like herbal medicine. Coffee prepared in Gulf countries also differ from other Arab countries in terms of bitterness and the types of cups it is served in.

Coffee is also never served to the brim because it isn’t “consumed to quench one’s thirst but to instill joy and happiness,” and is consumed with dates to ease the bitterness of the coffee.

Traditional cafes versus coffee chains?

There has been much discussion recently over the coffee suppliers in the Middle East. But with the presence of specialty shops in the market, will the notion of traditional Arabic cafes begin to suffer?

Ryan Godinho, an Events Coordinator for World Coffee Events’ UAE National Body, said: “Since the introduction of a first major coffee franchise in 1997, Dubai has been built around branded coffee chains … it’s been quite a rapid expansion”.

The sheer number and diversity of coffee shops and cafes in the Middle East is astounding.

“The world market is growing at about 2.5 percent and coffee continues to be one of the strongest performing commodities. But the Middle East as part of the emerging markets is growing at between 4 and 10 percent … because of the expansion in the number of cafes,” said Khalid Khalid Al Mulla, a partner in the UAE company Easternmen & Co.

In fact, UAE residents currently consume an average 3.5 kilogram of coffee per year, which is nearly double that of other Gulf countries.

“Coffee growth is everywhere in Dubai and in the Middle East. From the visible numbers of more coffee shops on the streets to the sheer amount of different roast and ground coffees being offered in super markets,” wrote Maja Wallengreen, “there is no denying the boom in coffee culture.”

Middle Eastern café culture has now become a blend of traditional coffee shops and modern, Western coffee shop chains, both have managed to coexist and stay relevant in the region. And one would hope that the rich coffee traditions and heritage of Arabia can and should withstand the more modern yet temporary name scribbled on the side of a cup. There is, however, a growing interest in local coffee, its preparation, the traditions behind it and the rich, bitter-sweet pronounced and subtle notes that make it so unique and beloved.

“The world is becoming more of a global village, where people are picking and enjoying the best bits from all cultures, and this especially includes the best bits from Arabic culture,” said Takrouri. “And Arabic culture has wonderful gifts to offer the world.”

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